Today it has been 32 days since I left Canada. One month in, seven more to go. I am beginning to feel comfortable in Kathmandu. I recognize the some of the crazy streets and our local shopkeeper recognizes me. I can successfully ride the bus and tempo, and I don’t fear for my life every single time I cross the street – well at least not every time. I have had also had time to meet many of the other volunteers here and observe this newfound culture of expats. I am amazed by just how easy it would be to build a ‘bubble of Westernism’ around you here. There are fancy restaurants, beauty parlors, nice gyms, and hired help. Nearly everyone, at least in the capital, speaks English to some degree. Everything in Kathmandu seems cheap or affordable in terms of Canadian dollars. All of this luxury can be a wonderful comfort, but how much is too much when you are living in a developing country? Is it extravagance or are you helping the local economy? What do you need and what do you just want? I am struggling with the fact that I am considered wealthy here, when I am actually an in-debt student who is volunteering her time.
The income disparity in Kathmandu is so apparent it almost takes your breath away. As I walk to work every morning I see Land Rovers with a hired driver and one passenger, a bus that has so many people on it a man falls off the bottom step, street children begging, young women wearing high heels I dream about in Canada, shacks with too many people living in it, a house that would rival mansions back home… And the list goes on. The sight of expensive cars becomes almost sickening when you think about the 200%+ tax people pay on importing a car. Considering the high price of vehicles here and the fairly high price of fuel (around 97 NRs per liter or $1.14 CND), I am actually amazed by the sheer number of cars and motorcycles on the road. Further, the unemployment rate in Nepal is 46%. When I asked a Canadian co-worker of mine about how people afford cars, she mentioned how family’s sometimes pool resources to buy and share property or vehicles and how a car could be the result of remittance funds. It is estimated that remittance accounts for 30% of Nepal’s GDP! The economic situation in Nepal seems to get more complicated the more I look into it.
I know there is income disparity and different levels of poverty around the world, even in developed countries, but when the impacts are right in front of you, day after day, it is a different story. Knowing is different then actually seeing something. It really makes me think about the decisions I make in my life and about how I live my life. Since I moved into an apartment 2 weeks ago, I have tried to stop converting things into Canadian dollars; I want to start thinking in terms of local prices and values. I also want to try to spend my money in places that might make an impact on local livelihoods, such as in the corner store or local clothing shop over the bigger department stores. I want to be conscious of my new found affluence and perceptions that locals have of foreigners, especially white foreigners.
lots of love,
Cass
lemongrass and sass 